Fall planting: garlic, bulbs and cool-weather crops
Fall is a second planting season. Cool-weather vegetables sown in summer can be harvested up to and past the first frosts, garlic goes in for next summer, and spring bulbs go in for next spring. All of it is timed from your first fall frost.
Fall vegetables: count back from the first frost
Virginia Cooperative Extension's guide to fall vegetable gardening gives a simple method for the latest date you can sow a crop and still harvest it:
- Start with the crop's days to harvest, from the seed packet.
- If you grow your own transplants, add the days from seed to transplant.
- Add the average harvest period, if you want to keep picking for a while.
- Add a "fall factor" of about two weeks, because plants grow more slowly in the cooler, shorter days of fall.
- For crops that frost kills (beans, sweet corn, cucumbers, squash, tomatoes), add two more weeks, so they finish before the frost.
Count that many days back from your typical first fall frost. Some examples, using the typical days to harvest in Colorado State University Extension's planting guide:
- Radishes, about 30 days: sow by 44 days before the first frost.
- Spinach, about 40 days: sow by 54 days before.
- Turnips, about 50 days: sow by 64 days before.
- Leaf lettuce and beets, about 60 days: sow by 74 days before.
- Carrots, about 70 days: sow by 84 days before.
- Snap beans, about 60 days and frost-tender: sow by 88 days before.
Those are the latest dates, for the harvest-period step left out. Sowing a week or two earlier gives you a longer picking season. Your ZIP code's planting calendar lists these dates already worked out.
Virginia Cooperative Extension notes that cool-season crops such as kale, turnips, mustard, broccoli and cabbage grow well in cool fall days and withstand light frosts, and that some of the best-tasting vegetables of the year come from fall's warm days and cool nights.
Sowing in summer heat
Fall crops are sown in the hottest, driest part of the year, which is hard on seeds. The same guide suggests sowing when the soil is moist after a rain, or watering the bed thoroughly the day before. Cover seeds about twice as deep as you would in spring. A light mulch keeps the soil cool and moist, but keep it thin enough for seedlings to push through.
Leaving crops in over winter
Some crops can stay in the garden into winter. Virginia Cooperative Extension lists kale, spinach, bunching onions, lettuce, parsley, parsnips, carrots and salsify as crops that may survive all winter, mulched with about 8 inches of mulch to keep the soil from heaving. You can dig or pick them as needed.
Garlic
Garlic is planted in fall and harvested the next summer. The University of Minnesota Extension's advice:
- When: one or two weeks after the first killing frost. This is advice for Minnesota, where every winter is hard. Our calendar counts from the typical first 28°F night and shows a garlic window only where a 28°F night comes every year and before December. In milder places it leaves garlic out, and your county's extension office is the better guide.
- What: cloves from a garlic seed producer, not from the grocery store. Store garlic is mostly a softneck type, which the university says doesn't do well in Minnesota's climate.
- How: separate the cloves a day or two before planting. Plant them pointed end up, with the base of each clove 2 to 3 inches below the surface, 6 inches apart.
- Mulch: cover the bed with 3 to 4 inches of leaves or straw to even out winter temperatures and hold back weeds. Pull it back in spring once hard freezes are over.
Spring bulbs in cold-winter places
Tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths need to grow roots in fall, before the ground freezes. The University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension says to plant when the ground has cooled to about 50 to 55°F but isn't frozen, and to keep planting until a couple of weeks before it freezes. A soil thermometer takes the guesswork out of it.
- Depth: two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall, measured from the bottom of the bulb. Large bulbs go about 6 to 8 inches deep, small ones 3 to 4.
- Squirrels: daffodils and hyacinths are poisonous to squirrels and chipmunks, which leave them alone; tulips and crocus get dug up. Chicken wire laid over the bed, removed in spring, helps.
- Where: the University of Minnesota Extension suggests avoiding low spots where frost collects, since early shoots can be damaged there.
In Minnesota, the university's extension service says planting usually runs from mid-September to mid-October.
Spring bulbs in mild-winter places
In the South, the soil stays warm much later, and many bulbs don't get the winter cold they need to bloom. Clemson University's Home and Garden Information Center, writing for South Carolina, advises:
- Plant daffodils in October or November.
- Wait to plant other spring bulbs until the soil at planting depth stays below 60°F. In coastal areas, that can mean late December or early January.
- Most bulbs need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks to flower. Where winters are mild, keep them in the refrigerator, in ventilated bags and away from fruit, until planting. Some suppliers sell bulbs already chilled.
- Tulips usually give one season of color there and are treated like annuals.
Your fall dates
All of this hangs on one date: your typical first fall frost. Look up your ZIP code to find yours, along with the early-year date, when 1 fall in 10 has already had a frost.
Sources
- Fall Vegetable Gardening (426-334), Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech. Checked October 25, 2026.
- Vegetable Planting Guide (CMG GardenNotes #720), Colorado State University Extension. Checked October 25, 2026.
- Growing garlic in home gardens, University of Minnesota Extension. Checked October 25, 2026.
- Plant Bulbs Now for Spring Color, University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension. Checked October 25, 2026.
- Planting bulbs, tubers and rhizomes, University of Minnesota Extension. Checked October 25, 2026.
- Spring-Flowering Bulbs (HGIC 1155), Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Checked October 25, 2026.
More guides: What your last frost date really means · Hardiness zones, and what changed on the 2023 map · How to protect plants from a late frost · Starting seeds indoors: when and how