How to protect plants from a late frost

Your tomatoes are in, and tonight's forecast says frost. Here's what works, how much it helps, and what doesn't work, according to university extension services.

Know which kind of cold is coming

The National Weather Service uses two main alerts in the growing season:

Colorado State University Extension describes two kinds of frost. A radiation frost happens on a calm, clear night, when the ground's heat escapes into the open sky. Early and late in the season these frosts are usually only a few degrees below what plants can take, so covering them is well worth it. An advective frost comes with a cold front blowing in. Temperatures can fall far below what plants can survive, and protection may not be enough.

A calm, clear night is the classic frost night, and frost can form even when the forecast low is in the mid-30s: the official thermometer sits about 6.5 feet up, and on those nights the air at plant level is colder, as the National Weather Service office in Tallahassee explains.

Cover plants the right way

A cover works by trapping the heat the soil soaked up during the day. That's why the details matter.

How much protection each cover gives

These figures come from extension trials and guides. They're the protection under the cover compared with outside.

For a hard freeze, University of New Hampshire Extension suggests doubling up: two layers protect better than one when temperatures drop below 28°F.

The watering question

You may have heard that watering before a freeze protects plants. University of Georgia Extension calls this half true. Soil that is well watered can keep the air just above it as much as 5 degrees warmer, but only if the whole area around the plant is watered, and the plant is close to the ground. Farmers who protect crops by running sprinklers all night are doing something different; that takes continuous overhead watering and isn't practical in a home garden.

Pots and baskets

Containers are easier: carry them into a garage, shed or porch for the night, and bring them back out in the morning.

Where frost hits first

Cold air is heavy, and on still nights it slides downhill and collects in low places. Virginia Cooperative Extension warns that a low, unsheltered garden is likely to be a frost pocket, while gardens on the upper side of a slope and sheltered from wind are less likely to get an early frost. If you're choosing where to put tender plants, choose the higher, sheltered spot.

Before the first fall frost

In fall, the plan is different: you're trying to finish a harvest. Virginia Cooperative Extension's advice when frost is forecast:

Plan ahead with your dates

Your frost dates tell you when to be ready. On your ZIP code's page, the "early year" fall date is when 1 fall in 10 has already had its first frost: a good day to get covers out of the shed. In spring, the "late year" date is when you can usually put them away.

Sources

More guides: What your last frost date really means · Hardiness zones, and what changed on the 2023 map · Starting seeds indoors: when and how · What to plant, month by month